Port Townsend, Pt. 2: A Day In Food (& My Recommendations)

Cinnamon Twist, fresh from Pane d'Amore, with coffee. Twice we've smelled them baking these and other truly fresh pastries and breads when we walked by at 11:30 PM the night before.

My two-and-a-half week stay in Port Townsend has allowed me to observe the lifestyle many live here, and there are certainly some trends. Many residents, if not most, have chosen to live here. True, the trend nationwide shows many people move away from where they were born or grew up, often following jobs. However, we aren't always happy in our new locations, especially when it's hard to connect with people. So many Port Townsend residents have come to this "Victorian Seaport & Arts Community," as the sign welcoming you calls it, with a particular awareness of that word "community."

Perhaps it is due to the type of people that come here. Aside from the historical paper mill, there is no large industry or business drawing workers. These are artisans, crafters, farmers, small business owners, preschool teachers. Perhaps these people's own financial independence has them feeling inclined to support the network of small businesses that really makes up this town. It is most definitely an interesting study on how a village community can function. (My thoughts on how this could be relevant in the future of humanity are extensive--too much so for this blog post! I'd love to talk to YOU about it though)

A central part of community is, of course, food. I've never been around such abundant, fresh fruit in my life as I have this summer. I worked through the heart of the season in a blueberry field at Finnriver, a family-owned organic farm and cidery in nearby Chimacum, and let me tell you, those bushes were laden! Fruit trees all around town are begging to be picked. Tomato season is finally arriving, too--all of this despite a severe drought. 

Needless to say, food and farming is a knot that holds this community together, and tourists and locals alike can enjoy the many fresh and flavorful options. I have collected here three different options to experience what Port Townsend has to offer your tastebuds.

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At the top is a drawing of a cinnamon twist from the artisan bakery around the corner from us in Uptown, Pane d'Amore. When I went in to buy these treats for our breakfast, irresistible after smelling cinnamon wafting down the street the night before, I saw front and center blueberry cream pies, with blueberries from... you guessed it, Finnriver! I could've picked those very berries! Interconnectedness brings a rewarding feeling. This bakery uses true sourdoughs and bakes their goods fresh the night before (as I discovered while craving a midnight snack).

I did this sketch at the Saturday Farmers Market in Uptown Port Townsend, also just a few minutes' walk from our front door. Local organic farmers from all around the area converge every Saturday morning, 9 AM to 2 PM, from April to December. There are also musicians and freshly cooked goodies like salmon sandwiches and the best bagels you will ever have in your life. Saturdays uptown truly capture the spirit of the town.

If you get lunch at the farmers market and spend the afternoon perhaps on the beach or exploring Fort Worden, consider getting dinner at Hanazono. This Asian noodle restaurant is located downtown, not far from the iconic stairway that leads you down from Uptown. Vegetables are freshly provided from a local farm, and the spices will not let you down. My sister and I split two dishes, a vegan rice-noodle soup and the buckwheat stir-fried noodles. In the middle of our meal we looked up at each other and burst out laughing: we both had our spoons in one hand and our chopsticks in the other, fully immersed in this rich culinary experience. Portions are sizable and the price is right.

My trip to the Pacific Northwest has come to an end, and next week I'll begin my first semester of college. I always look forward with great excitement to new people and experiences, and that's just what I have in store!

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Port Townsend, Pt. 1: The View From The Beach

Even on a short trip to Port Townsend, Washington, it is impossible not to notice the prevalence of water. It is a part of the charm here. The town of a little over 9000 people rests on the north end of the Quimper Peninsula, which is on the northeastern point of the Olympic Peninsula. To the north of Pt. Townsend is the Straight of Juan de Fuca, and any boat that passes the Victorian seaport headed south enters into the Admiralty Inlet, which leads to Puget Sound. 

Above is the view looking to the northeast, about where the Juan de Fuca meets the Admiralty Inlet. On the left behind the small bluff you can see the docked ferry that makes regular trips between Port Townsend and Whidbey Island. In the distance are some the Northern Cascades, looking into Canada. Below is a photo with my sketchbook looking in the same direction (take notice of what I usually end up using as my palette: my left hand).

In the other direction, in the case of these photos looking to my right, one can spy the Olympic Mountains, much bigger in their appearance due to their close proximity. A drive into the mountains can take less than two hours, depending where you're headed, making absolutely stunning hikes just a day trip away.

View of the Olympics beyond the shipyard.

The water and clear-day views are only a part of the beauty of this charming and classical town. The preserved, Victorian-style architecture and sense of community really make this place what it is.

View of the Cascades from Pt. Townsend

Keep an eye out for the sequel to this blog post, with sketches not just looking out from the town's many beaches, but of the place itself.

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How do you define HOME?

How do you define "home"?

Is it rooted in a specific place, somewhere you spent a lot of time, where you came of age? Perhaps it is associated with a smell, with a feeling you get in the pit of your stomach.

Or is it the people? Family, friends. New individuals you come to call family, with whom you share life's experiences.

I have had these thoughts and more in my head lately as I relocate and revisit things from my past. I was born in northern Florida where my parents still own a house, where we would spend a lot of our time during school breaks after we moved to Oklahoma when I was 7 years old. I've written poetry about this place, both while there and from many miles away. It is the first place I learned to call home. Spaces in my brain are draped with Spanish moss like old Live Oak trees. These will live at least as long as I do. The patterns of light reflected through leaves on our river's surface could be a reason I draw on nature as a central inspiration to this day. These are a part of my deep down identity.

I am back in the Old South now, this time in Georgia, after coming of age in Oklahoma and, about a year ago, starting everything anew in Germany. I think of all these places with a fondness that arises from my feeling that they are all home. It could be that my current transition is easy because of my roots in the South; not to mention, I'm more experienced with change. I can quickly sense that this will become another one of my "homes."

 As I travel, I discover new corners of my heart that I didn't know existed, and, to my luck and excitement, people to populate them with. It's like exploring an old house. There is a feeling in these new places, of culture, history, age, stories. A breath. Humans. Yet they are fresh to my eyes. I am inspired. Others are inspired and bring their fresh perspectives into the world.

This is a reason to travel. The foundation may already be there, but YOUR ideas are the ones that will keep the world fresh. This house needs new light fixtures, and perhaps what you have to offer can change the whole picture, so that the next person to walk through sees things differently. (Can you tell we just moved into an old home that needs some improvements? ;) )

If you will humor me for a moment and let me offer a piece of advice: wherever you might be in your life, it's to allow yourself to be surrounded by new things and ideas and to be open to them. I outlined above my personal story thus far, but unexpected turns could lead me in new directions. Let yourself be amazed by the world around you, and you don't have to go far for that.

I think some of these animals have the right idea. Above is a sketch of our dog, Searcy. I would say I have to give some of the most credit to the dog and cat through this move. They've taken on this new place as their home, after having no idea what was coming. They let the charm seep into them as well, and now they're starting to fit right in.

There are many outdoor cats living on our street, and one even came and snuggled against my legs. Cats are native residents that have a lot to show you about their quarter; they're worth a listen.

Perhaps home is that part that stays with you even when everything else changes. It could be a way to look into a window at a fundamental part of yourself. After all, aren't we products of our environment?

How do you define HOME? I would love to hear about your thoughts and experiences.

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First Solo Exhibition in der Kulturwerkstatt Meiderich

The past two months or so have been incredibly full. I have met and gotten to know some wonderful people, and though I do feel like I haven't had a chance to slow down and catch up on sleep in awhile, the art of what I've been doing has allowed me to appreciate each moment, which I won't quickly forget. 

I was asked today what I would take back the most with me from my year here, and the answer was fairly clear to me: I highly value contact to people of many backgrounds and lifestyles. Getting to know them and hearing their stories and, perhaps the part most unique to my current situation, experiencing their life and culture along with them has expanded my horizons through an exchange of ideas and emotions. Ha! How cheesily perfect: here I am, at the end of my exchange year, talking about how exchange has allowed me to, well, exchange things.

As cheesy or not as that may sound, I do feel like I have had something to offer here, though in an unconventional way. The road has surely been lined with countless mistakes, on cultural, language, and personal levels. I have been amazed, though, time and time again, how much interest people have shown to me in response to my own indication of interest in their lives. I am particularly thankful to the members of the Duisburg art community, who have helped me to put myself out there and make a name for myself in this relatively close-knit but active community.

At last, to the central point of this blog post. Perhaps a little delayed, I wanted to share with you all nevertheless a little bit from my first solo art exhibition, which took place in April at the Kulturwerkstatt Meiderich, an art gallery space in Meiderich, a quarter of Duisburg.

The show featured drawings and watercolors from me, all of which had been created since arriving in Duisburg last September. My sketchbooks alongside works on paper were open to the public for three weeks.

The gallery opening, which was well-attended as you can see in the above panoramic photo (thank you again to everyone who came! It meant a lot to me), began with a show of some works from the sketchbooks, enlarged so that everyone could view and briefly discuss them together.

Josef Tobias, who I truly cannot thank enough for all of his help in arranging and hanging the show, opened the show. He introduced me and why I'm here, and explained the background behind many of the works and how they came to exist.

Below are a few more selections of hung works:

Lucky for us, Frank Fischer put together this awesome tour of the show for Duisburg 365, which you can view here or on YouTube. The video shows all of the works that were hanging, along with glimpses into my traveling sketchbooks.

Thank you also to my sister, Kimberly West, for taking all of these photos. It was great to have her there for the experience as well, and she was a great support, especially considering she couldn't understand any of what was being said.

Now I have a little over a week left here in Germany. I'm soaking up every minute of it and looking forward to bringing back experiences to share with friends and family in the U.S.

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Impressions from Amsterdam (in Two Sketches)

Amsterdam's Herengracht (Gentlemen's Canal). Spring was popping out and the colors of the young leaves on the trees couldn't have been fresher.

I see that it has been over a month since my last post. I assure you, I have been keeping my eyes open to many new experiences, but being busy and on-the-go hasn't lent itself to a whole lot of blogging. I'll be working it back into my schedule, as sharing my work (and getting your feedback, keep it coming!) is important to me. 

My parents and sister came to visit. It was truly wonderful being able to show them around and act as a translator. I think now they have a much better idea of what I am experiencing in my year here, including language, culture, and people. We got to share valuable experiences and made memories that will last.

Part of their visit included a few days in Amsterdam. I was swept up by the beauty and feeling of the city. Spring in Holland is not to be missed! The crisp air breathes into blossoming flowers everywhere. The atmosphere of the city was even better than had been described to me. The extensive canal system is made up of waterways lined with trees that were just beginning their spring explosion.

I think I get about as excited as all the plants do when spring comes. My heart opens up when I see all the gray branches suddenly burst into a show of colors, and the air just feels cleaner when that particular shade of green appears. Perhaps that lends a particular lightness to cities. It's like a holiday, but without a set date because every year is slightly different. From an artistic standpoint, particularly for me as I document the world around me through sketches, everything changes. Trees that were previously just collections of dark lines now play a much more predominant and complicated visual role in sceneries.

We also visited the Van Gogh Museum, which I would also highly recommend if you find yourself in Amsterdam. The artist left behind an enormous collection of works, and he wrote countless letters to his brother, Theo. The combination of these two provides an extensive view into his process, very well put together by the museum. The above sketch was inspired by Van Gogh's Irises. I filled up several other pages of my sketchbook with notes, too, while in the museum.

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Sketches of the workings of the springtime sun

The sun has begun to make her springtime appearance. It's a tentative performance, as she remains a bit shy, but it's becoming more confident. The effect of this on my mood and outlook is incredible. It wasn't that my rainy winter has been filled with longing for sunshine, but when the clouds part and the sun comes out, I can't help but smile.

I love the way the sun shines through the streets and lights up the buildings. As I've perhaps mentioned, I am very attracted to the architecture of European houses and apartment buildings, and the sunlight casts shadows that create interesting contrasts and bring out interesting patterns around windows and along rooftops. I went outside a few days ago and tried to capture with black ink the stark contrasts created by the fresh sunshine.

By the way, the works in this post are on a bigger scale than many of my previous recent works, in this case DIN A3, or 42 x 30 cm/16.5 x 11.7 in. It's good practice to be drawing a bit bigger again.

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Spring has been making an appearance in other forms as well. The plants, like me, have noticed the sunshine and warming temperatures and are sending out their tendrils to test if it's really true, if winter is really reaching an end. 

In my attempt to document life as it's happening around me, in particular right now in the process of my year, I of course wanted to complete a series of blossoms. And I just love flowers and plants and their aesthetic.

I hope, wherever you are, that the beginning of spring has started to show itself in some way and that you can enjoy those little moments! I'd love to hear what the change of seasons looks like in your corner of the world.

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Paris in 15-Minute Sketches

Ah, sweet Paris. Where the croissants are fluffy and the café au lait nears perfection...

These delicious treats and the above view greeted us upon arrival to Paris on Saturday morning. My host mom, sister, her godmother, and I took a train that left just before 6 AM and arrived at 10, which was perfect to enjoy a late breakfast in a Parisian cafe below Montmartre. We couldn't have had better timing: we sat down at a table next to what appeared to be freshly cleaned window and the clouds gave way to bright blue sky. The sun shone on a gleaming white Sacré-coeur, and I documented the moment in between sips of coffee and bites from my panini fromages.

Here is the other half of the view, what was in front of me on our table:

We walked up the stairs to Sacre-couer afterwards and spent a few hours meandering around the streets of Montmartre, enjoying the sounds, smells, and tastes of France.

I had a good exercise in map reading skills, something we don't get so often any more in the age of smartphones and GPS, which I didn't have with me because it costs extra to use my phone in another country. We were only lost at one point, which is pretty good considering how confusing and full the streets were as it got dark in the evening. Not to mention, it's fun to actually use a map and develop a better sense of your surroundings!

On Sunday, I visited Museé d'Orsay, where I filled up two pages in my little sketchbook with the names of works and artists that captured my attention. The museum is well known for their large impressionism exhibition, and I was also drawn in by their collections of Van Gogh and Toulouse-Lautrec.

I had a few hours left before we had to catch our train back home (which was also from about six to ten, but in the evening), so I went for a walk along the Seine and paused some to sketch. Notre Dame popped out from behind some other buildings as I was walking, and the scene struck me.

While the trip was short, our two days were full of new impressions, and we were all very pleased with the slice of the city we were served.

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Oil Spill

Oil Spill 1, watercolor.

Waves crash over the heart

and pull at skin, eyes, hair

until I’m only

salt.

I can’t control the tides,

a reminder that the earth pulls me along with her.

Through ebbs

and flows

undeterred by human desire.

And the hard-beaten salty self

will close her eyes to shield from the harsh light

and the memory of someone

who’s not there anymore,

like maybe the sun will have to someday do

when she can no longer shed tears

for her lost lover:

planet earth.

Oil Spill 2, watercolor.

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A few recent works and thoughts for you today. These two watercolor paintings were done in response to an assignment for my art course in school, my chosen theme being the relationship between humans and the environment (a topic that I always find myself drawn back to). However, I do feel there is more behind these pictures for me personally.

Without saying more, I'd love to hear any responses to these works if you're willing to share! You can leave comments below.

Also, look forward to a post in the next couple of days with drawings from my weekend in Paris!

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Composition in Winter + Hafenkult Show

In the above sketch, I'm playing with the line between documentary sketching and sketching as art. I feel myself growing a lot through practice, and my abilities are expanding. I am always working to better capture the feeling of the place I'm drawing.

The row of houses in the above drawing are all dark, musky earth tones, and the sky is pale here in winter. These trees jump out at me every day when I ride my bike by them, because they are covered in brilliant green. It's always a show for my eyes despite the winter weather and general lack of foliage.

Speaking of riding my bike, this is a central part of life here, and winter doesn't stop that. Just layer up. Bike lanes will get you almost anywhere you need to be, and probably faster than any other means of transit (unless you have a car, but gas is expensive anyway).

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I was lucky enough to be asked to be present as a guest artist in the first of what will become a monthly event at the Hafenkult, a studio and gallery space in Duisburg. Das Hafensofa will take place the first Friday evening of every month. Visitors can stop by and chat in the living room atmosphere, view the studios, and talk to the artists. I had a little table for my sketchbooks, and I was around to talk to anyone who wanted to hear more about this concept and what I do.

Photo thanks to © René Hafkesbrink. A friend of mine who has since moved to New Zealand, I encourage you to visit this talented and growing photographer's blog to see more of his work: Westsee.

Here is a TV spot that appeared on a local channel. Bonus: I'm interviewed, so you can hear me speaking German!

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My current project: Books that fit in your hand

I've touched a little bit on my current project, which has been filling my blog posts of late, but I wanted to go further into detail to describe the idea behind these sketchbooks.

These books are small (an open book with both sides is 14x18 cm); a closed book is about the size of your hand. I carry my current book with me most everywhere I go, to draw in it when I find a scene I want to capture. Passers-by can share in my process of documenting places and life when they stop and watch me draw for a little while, an interesting side-effect of making art in public spaces.

However, there is something particular about this size. It allows people to be quickly drawn in, and serves as a center of conversation with the people who page through it and look at the drawings. With its small size, the viewer can observe the entire drawing in one glance without having to distance themselves from the work. It is the perfect size to hold in your hand before you. These sketches are finished pieces of art in and of themselves, but they don't need to be hung on a wall. They need to travel, like me. They need to be flipped through with human fingers, however quickly or slowly the viewer likes. The book, when filled, will be a finished work of art as well, one that slowly spells out a cumulative story with each turned page.

I also, of course, enjoy sharing the images here for those of you who can't see my sketchbooks in person. Here is a little chronological three-page taste for you. (I must also say, I enjoyed eating this banana so much after drawing it for half an hour)

There are more books to be filled, more places to be drawn ahead! Please subscribe if you would like to stay updated!

Lines and Midpoints

I'm thinking about the power of simple line drawings. I am doing a lot of quick drawings of people around me. The watercolors will come back soon, I predict, but for now, I just can't resist the way my pen cuts through the buttery Moleskine paper of my new travel journal with such rich precision.

The above was drawn above in an Eiscafé in Köln (ice cream café in Cologne) where I drank hot chocolate and Emma ate a scoop of ice cream and we talked and were grateful for our health, considering most of our friends were out with a stomach bug (more on that below).

We had our midyear orientation in Cologne this past weekend. I am now slightly over halfway through my year in Germany! This is a little weird, but only a little. My thoughts: I still have five more months, and if I base it on the last five, a lot can happen. It will be weird when the time comes to return to the U.S., but I'm mostly enjoying all the time I do have here. Better not stop too long to think about it, I need to keep at my drawing and documenting! There's so many stories to tell!

This is the Münster Kirche in Bonn. This was a less-than-ten-minute sketch, but I was just struck by the building.

It was good to see all of the American friends I spent a month living with in Hedersleben. However, it wasn't so good that some sort of stomach virus caught about two-thirds of the group before the weekend was over. Somehow I was one of the few who didn't get it!

Basti, my host brother, alongside some flowers.

A lazy Sunday afternoon with my host mom, a friend of ours, and her dog.

The flowers make a second appearance, this time outside of the sketchbook.

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Belgium in Urban Sketches

2015 has gotten off to a really good start, one fitting my current life here in Europe. I spent Silvester, or New Year's Eve, with friends, and we rang in the new year setting off fireworks in the street and dancing together. I was smiling and laughing for the first hours of 2015.

I then spent four days with Lydia in Brussels, staying with a family friend of hers who very generously offered us a place to stay and tours of Bruges, Brussels, and Antwerp. Only a native could show us around so well! The weather was, for the most part, unusually sunny for January, which was perfect for spending hours outside exploring.

I was struck by several things in Belgium. First, the mix of cultures and languages. I think this is distinctly European, but we don't have it quite as much where I live, though certainly more than in the US. Pre-20th century Europe consisted of many kingdoms and empires, and the modern-day borders haven't existed for so long. What is geographically today Germany, however, has long been populated by German-speakers, whereas Belgium, though a small country, consists of different communities that speak different languages. Brussels is predominantly French-speaking, and Antwerp Dutch (though they are less than an hour apart). Most everything throughout the country is written in both French and Dutch, sometimes with German as well.

Lydia and I were immersed into this multi-cultural world as soon as we arrived. We were picked up by friends Bruno and his daughter Celine. Bruno and his wife are both Belgian, but he grew up speaking Dutch and she French, and they speak French at home. We went to an audio-guided museum in Bruges on our first afternoon, and Celine took her audio guide in French, Bruno in Dutch, Lydia in English, and I in German. Needless to say, the woman helping us was confused as to how we could be one group!

I was also amazed by the architecture I saw on our trip. Honestly, I didn't have very much of a picture of Belgium in my head beforehand. I knew I had to go to the place to get a better feel for it, but everything really was so much more beautiful than I've seen in any photos. Really, if you get the opportunity, go see Brussels and Bruges!

The drawing at the top is a part of the king's royal palace in Brussels. Below is the old stock exchange building, which is now used for exhibitions. I drew this from down the street a little, because I liked the way the one grandiose structure is bordered by the other buildings on the street I'm siting in.

Also fitting well into the spirit of the city was the classical trio of violin, viola, and cello that we came across. The music was beautiful to listen to as I looked around, watching the sparse winter afternoon sunshine catch and illuminate the crowns of the buildings against a blue sky. Each house is unique, which creates a pictures that fun to look at and imagine the history of all of the people who have stood where I am standing.

With that, I've completed my little red sketchbook. It tells a lot of stories, and I can already see that I've developed since I started it less than two months ago. I'm ready to see where my next one will take me!

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